Tresher publishing house in Berlin released last March new guidebook on Azerbaijan named "Travelling in the Land of Flames " - Aserbaidschan: Unterwegs im Land der Feuer. Its author Philine von Oppeln  travelled through all over the country and made a detailed description of regions and cities of Azerbaijan.  She kindly agreed to give an interview to one of the local internet news portals (Vesti.Az).

- How you come to an idea of writing a book on Azerbaijan?

- This was my idea. In February 2007 I heard a report by Azerbaijan president Ilham Aliyev in Berlin and this was the main reason to write about this country. To be honest, before that I did not know lot about Azerbaijan. I became interested and found out that Trescher publishing house that I work with had guidebooks on Georgia, Armenia and Central Asia but no book on Azerbaijan.  I was curious and decided to learn more about country, how it looks like and what could be put into the book.

- How were you preparing for travel to Azerbaijan?

- I have read several books on Azerbaijan history, art, culture, refreshed my Russian language skills and found co-author who already had an experience of travelling in Caucasus region. We planned an itinerary, divided country by sectors, got in touch with people in Azerbaijan who helped us a great deal during the travel. We could not cope without their help.

- What differ Azerbaijan from other European countries?

- Azerbaijan is special country. For me personally Azerbaijan is interesting because it is not included into European tourist countries list. There are a lot of sights that might not cause a great excitement but of enormous interest to me: mud volcanoes, traces of German settlers that used to live in this area, a number of various cultures in Caucasus mountains that preserved something original and distinctive, something off the beaten path, especially for tourists from Western Europe where you can't obtain the same sort of experience anymore. Moreover, Azerbaijan is crossroad of Europe and Asia.  The influence of both cultures is evident, often their coexist in very unexpected forms and it's very interesting to witness this kind of combination in every-day life. Sometimes you lose orientation, but I see this as a positive sign when something surprises me. For this reason you can't place Azerbaijan within some framework.

- Who helped to realize your project?

- My aim was to write an independent book, that is why we did not seek the support of Ministry of Tourism.  However, I managed to find a sponsor - Bakcell company whose support made this project realized. Bakcell financed most of the project. We also were in touch with representatives of German organizations in Baku that provided us useful assistance.

- What difficulties you encountered during your travel?

- The main problems were related to language barrier. In Baku you can explain somehow in English, outside this is much more difficult. Many speak Russian though in Nakhichevan there were situations when we could speak only in Azeri or Turkish languages.
Sometimes problems were in terms of infrastructure. In general I have to say: if you enjoy travel and ready for adventures then the travel becomes exciting.

By the way, woman traveling alone in Azerbaijan is quite safe. There are some prejudices in the West in regards to this. I felt myself safe in Azerbaijan, people were often helping me. Just because I am a women people were treating me with special respect. I never felt myself endangered.

Just close to territories occupied by Armenian forces and on Azeri-Armenian border in Nakhchivan police stopped me several times suspecting that I was a spy which could be easily explained: you visit places hardly ever visited by tourists, make pictures, writing down something in the notebook…

- Have you felt yourself a discoverer in some regions?

- I can't say that I really felt myself being discovering something, but I had special adventurous spirit in Nakhichevan, that is rarely visited by any tourists. It is really amazing there, fantastic landscape - bit no visitors. If you are in Nakhichevan you have to visit Ordubad - this is a marvelous place.

Perhaps this kind of feeling overcame me by Gey-Gol lake. Unfortunately most of the territory id closed for visitors but I was very curious and one local guy helped to guide me there on horseback, avoiding military posts - this was a real adventure, though forbidden one.

- What prerequisite are necessary to attract Western tourists to Azerbaijan?

- There is now a guidebook but some problems exist. Hotels in Baku are very and very expensive that is due to the oil business and presence of oil companies. There is just one hostel in Old City ideal for individual budget travelers that prefer to travel on their own just with rucksack on their back. There is no opportunity for them to find a cheap overnight accommodation in Baku. Most of the hotels offer expensive rooms with orientation to business people.

Also, it is very pity to witness what is happening with Baku - demolition of old buildings and construction of multistory ugly buildings in return. This can't promote tourism in Baku.
Small private shops are closing and ceding their positions to western chains Starbucks alike, and Baku loses its look and originality, what could attract tourists. What is happening with Baku is not the best scenario in my opinion.
It would also be much easier to put tablets in some tourist places, it would be much easier to locate them, especially if we are talking about sights outside Baku.
In the rest I have to say that it is quite pleasant to travel in Azerbaijan - transport is cheap, buses operate regularly. If you are OK with 'mini-buses' then you will have no problems at all. But you have to be ready that something might not be comfortable in the trip.

- What types of tourism might be especially attractive for Europeans?

- Azerbaijan has all conditions to develop ecological tourism. Though I am not sure how Azerbaijan itself finds it important, but it is necessary to develop nature tourism. Create resort centers near national parks, guest houses, information points for tourists, excursions - so that tourists could go, travel, rest and stay overnight there.

For example, In Shirvan national park that is located in semi-desert area a good idea could be to organize camel rides. To develop tourism it is not enough to construct expensive hotels in Baku, one need to promote tourism in regions, to use all potential that Azerbaijan posses.
Khynalyg settlement is amazing place with hospitable people that will provide you with food and lodging, where you can contact and interact with locals, but I am afraid that a large hotel will be constructed there soon and this will ruin this natural world around.
I  think that Azerbaijan has take a great care of those places in Caucasus that it has not to destroy nature and beautiful settlements, to develop nature tourism such as mud volcanoes. As far as I know volcanoes are now under the protection of state, not as it was before.
It is also pity that one can't travel in Caspian sea leaving from Baku Bay. No ship that gives an opportunity to visit islands in Baku Bay. Just one pleasure boat not going far and just for 30 minutes. These are opportunities to develop tourist potential of Azerbaijan. For example, it would be a good idea to organize visits to 'Oil Rocks'.

- Do you think Azerbaijan has a chance to become a popular destination for tourists from Germany?

- First of all you have to use your potential. You can't copy Western style: construct highways and large hotels - you can surprise with this no one either in Germany or in the West in general. You need to develop you own features, then you might become an attractive destination. But there are little chances to attract real mass tourism from the West - even Caspian shoreline is not attractive enough, quality of water is far from perfect. If country starts making serious investments in this area then you might have chances.

- What surprised and impressed you most in Azerbaijan?

- The most that impressed me were Caucasus mountains, Quba region, Khynalyg, small mountainous settlements where people speak on different languages and where one feels far away from everything that is familiar to you. Traveling horseback you feel yourself being in unknown land: people speak unknown language, large spaces, all this is very exciting.

- What Azeri dish you liked most?

- Before coming to Azerbaijan I was a vegetarian for more than 10 years. When I came to Azerbaijan I realized that without meat I would rather starve here to death. You can find some vegetarian dishes in Baku, but can hardly do it outside of Baku. You are generally offered kebabs, watermelons and bread. That's why I switched to kebabs. Not because I wanted. Though I have to say that kebabs taste really good - the meat is always fresh.

- What characteristics of Azerbaijan people you could distinguish as a traveler?

- Azerbaijan people are very hospitable and always ready to help. May be not always in Baku, though it is understandable, every metropolis like this. But in regions people are always friendly and open.
Westerner can easily notice that Azeris are very conservative and stick to traditions. You can judge this even by how people dress: men wear suits and shirts as a rule, never shorts. One can feel oneself being in a very conservative country, there is nothing negative in this, just more traditional atmosphere.

- What other country would you like to write about?

- I am going to cover Azerbaijan professionally. Writing about one country you are getting deeper into details and want to work in this direction further. Guidebooks are updated every two years, that's why it is quite hard for the author to write about many countries. I will keep on writing about Azerbaijan with more details on topics that of great interest to me.

 

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